SojuAppreciationSociety: the travel blog that answers the real questions you have

The small island of Boracay is the Philippines’ most visited travel destination -and by far the most accessible.

Travelling around the Philippine archipelago comes with its own logistical challenges, alongside the constant mental arithmetic of pesos, ferries, and flight connections. That said, the country offers stunning rewards: lush tropical scenery, waterfalls, beaches, and absurdly strong beer.

We visited Boracay towards the end of a backpacking trip through the Philippines. It was our final stop.

So is Boracay worth visiting?

I’m going to say no.

What’s the issue with Boracay?

Boracay was famously closed in 2018 by then-president Rodrigo Duterte, who described the island as a “cesspool” due to pollution, sewage issues, and unregulated development. The six month closure was intended to clean up the island and reset tourism.

Our taxi driver in Cebu spoke very highly of this, and was a big fan of Duterte violent anti drugs initiatives.

The flip side is that Boracay today is cleaner, more regulated, and far less chaotic than it once was. But those improvements came with trade-offs:

• Drinking alcohol on the beach is banned
• Scooter rentals are no longer allowed
• Unregulated vendors and informal businesses are tightly controlled

The island’s focus has shifted heavily toward upscale resort tourism. As a result, the main tourist strip feels less like an island town and more like a self contained resort complex.

You won’t find many of the cheap, characterful local restaurants or bars that make other Philippine islands so cool.

The cost of visiting Boracay

Boracay is expensive by Philippine standards.

Our hotel cost around £10 per night, which sounds good on paper -but it really showed. Thin walls, poor facilities, and a general sense that corners had been cut everywhere. I wouldn’t recommend going that cheap here.

Food and drinks are consistently pricier than elsewhere in the country, especially around White Beach. Even basic meals often cost significantly more than comparable food in places like Palawan or Siargao.

Transfers are another hidden cost. Booking an “all-in-one” airport-to-hotel transfer can easily cost 3,000 – 4,000 PHP, despite the individual components being much cheaper when booked separately

Experiences: the good and the frustrating

White Beach is genuinely beautiful. The sand is bright, the water is clear, and sunsets are impressive.

Unfortunately, you’re rarely left alone to enjoy it.

You’ll be constantly approached by:

• tour sellers
• restaurant promoters
• activity vendors

We booked an “island hopping tour”, which in practice meant:

• paying extra to snorkel
• being taken to additional tourist stops
• being repeatedly upsold once already on the boat

It was less an experience and more a sequence of small negotiations. Things like “Crystal Cove” were tourist traps that were an additional tour cost.

The one standout bar was Exit Bar, which seems to have survived from Boracay’s pre cleanup era and still retains some character.

Getting around Boracay

Transport on the island is now dominated by official electric buggies, constantly running up and down the main roads. To be fair, it’s probably a better system than the old free-for-all.

One important tip:
Do not book your entire transfer from the booths outside the airport.

It’s significantly cheaper to:

1. Book a shuttle to the ferry port
2. Buy ferry tickets directly
3. Join shared transport on arrival

If you can get on transport that already has passengers, the price drops noticeably.

Final verdict: is Boracay worth it?

It’s a backpacker cliché to chase places untouched by tourism -and that’s a naïve fantasy. I’m fully aware of that.

Still, Boracay feels less like an island and more like a giant resort zone. It lacks authenticity, costs more than most places in the Philippines, and offers little that you can’t find elsewhere for less money and less friction.

For beaches, nature, and even nightlife, there are far better options in the country.

Flights in the Philippines are expensive, but essential. Book flights and accommodation in advance and consider Palawan, Siquijor, Moalboal, or Siargao instead.