SojuAppreciationSociety: the travel blog that answers the real questions you have

Pai is a small town in the northwest of Thailand that has a rich history of hippies on the backpacking trails of SEA.

Now though the character has certainly changed somewhat, and it is a microcosm of the growth and evolution of tourism in Thailand. Pai itself has become a cliché.

So, if it’s definitely not the same as it once was and is a pastiche, is it worth the (long) detour to get there.

Quick verdict: Pai is absolutely worth visiting if you’re comfortable with crowds, winding roads, and a slightly chaotic backpacker scene. If you’re looking for quiet or “undiscovered” Thailand, this probably isn’t it.

How to get to Pai

Make your way to Chiang Mai, however you see fit. Most people take the train (book in advance).

From there are many different tour companies where you can book your transfer to Pai. Again super important to book in advance. We did not and ended up paying a hefty premium to take a taxi all the way there.

The journey is about 3 to 4 hours. The roads are beautiful, scenic and very very winding, famously has 762 curves. You can easily get motion sickness here, do not do this journey hungover.

Incidentally, if you’re feeling motion sickness, the rest stops will sell salted plumb as a remedy. Very odd, but it really works.

What’s the big deal, what is there to see and do?

So, with the caveats that you are probably not going to be ushered back to the heady summer of 1969 Pai has a lot to offer. The vibe retains some of its new age aura of yoga, sounds baths and other eclectic offerings.

But there will be other tourists there and some of them will be annoying.

Pai Canyon is a very beautiful sunset spot, that is very popular but definitely worth seeing.

Likewise there are lot of hikes and mountain scenery around.

There is Paradise bar that has twice weekly circus and fireshows, well worth visiting. Also famous for some flavourful magic shakes.

Lots of backpackers choose to go tipsy tubing, and twice weekly the town will be filled with young people in swimwear.

The town itself has lots of cool bars and there are flyers for techno parties happening frequently.

If that’s not your flavour then take on one of the many yoga, sound baths or spiritual groups going on. Or just chill out in one of the many scenic cafes.

Where to stay in Pai

Prices are generally more expensive than typical Thailand and cost £20+ for a hostel, or roughly £30–£50 per night ($38–$65 USD) for a private room.

Some of the best hotels though are out in the countryside. While you will get to experience beautiful scenery transport can be an issue.

Which leads me to…

How to get around Pai

Taxi services tend to stop around midnight. Grab or Bolt doesn’t really work there, or at least didn’t when I visited.

And some of the best bars and parties go on much later. The country roads are generally unlit and very dangerous at night with bike traffic and drunk tourists.

So if you stay out in town, you might need a bike, or some careful planning.

If you’ve never ridden before Pai is a pretty good place to learn. See my other article on this topic.  

There are places offering lessons in town – nothing particularly intense, but will learn to not fly off the accelerator.

Legally, most tourists probably can’t ride bikes out there, most do though. But if you’re willing to take the risk then it can be worth it for the options it opens up to you.

So, to conclude – is Pai worth it?

Yeah.

Some people are put off by Pai as a place where tourists outnumber the locals. A jaded take might say that it’s a western theme park with a spiritual veneer.

Which would be harsh.

It’s not an untouched gem, but there aren’t many places in the world that really are. If something is popular it probably has is reasons.